Capital City
Beirut is a city that refuses to be defined. Built and rebuilt across millennia, it pulses with a creative energy unlike anywhere else in the region. Roman ruins lie beneath glass-fronted galleries; centuries-old hammams operate steps from rooftop clubs; the Mediterranean laps at the foot of districts that host some of the Arab world's finest restaurants.
The city is divided into distinct neighbourhoods, each with its own personality. Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael are home to Beirut's art and nightlife scene — indie bars, concept stores, and murals covering entire buildings. Hamra is the intellectual quarter, buzzing with bookshops, café terraces, and university life. Downtown, rebuilt after the civil war, hosts luxury shopping and the Roman Baths.
Beirut's food scene is arguably its greatest attraction. From early-morning manoushe at a neighbourhood bakery to multi-course mezze feasts lasting until midnight, the city eats with extraordinary passion and skill. Don't leave without eating at one of the legendary mezze restaurants in the hills above the city.
Uber is the easiest way to navigate Beirut. Shared taxis (service) are very cheap and run on fixed routes. Walking is the best way to explore individual neighbourhoods — but don't try to walk between them, the hills are steep and distances deceptive.
Achrafieh and Gemmayzeh offer the best boutique hotel scene, with charming Ottoman-era buildings converted into intimate properties. Downtown has the luxury flagships. For budget travellers, hostels in Hamra offer great value and a social atmosphere.