Byblos — known locally as Jbeil — is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with evidence of settlement dating back over 7,000 years. Today it is a small, perfectly preserved town of 40,000 people, its ancient layers gently worn smooth by the centuries.
The old harbour is Byblos at its most atmospheric: fishing boats still come and go, restaurants line the waterfront serving the morning's catch, and the Crusader castle dominates the skyline above. Nearby, Phoenician temples and a Roman theatre have been excavated from the hillside, giving visitors a clear window into the city's extraordinary depth of history.
The medieval old city is a delight to wander — narrow lanes of golden stone, craft workshops, and independent cafés tucked behind ancient walls. Byblos is also believed to be the city that gave the alphabet to the world, a claim backed by the Phoenician inscriptions found here.
Byblos is 37km north of Beirut — about 45 minutes by car. Shared taxis run regularly from Charles Helou station in Beirut. Hiring a private driver for a day trip is the most comfortable option.
The Crusader Castle, Phoenician temples, Roman theatre, and old harbour are the key sights — all within easy walking distance. The Byblos Fossil Museum, displaying 90-million-year-old sea creatures found in local limestone, is a fascinating stop.